Cycling the Parenzana Trail: A Slow Journey Through Istria's Hills

The Parenzana Trail is a quiet gem hidden in the green hills of Istria. It follows the route of a narrow-gauge railway that once linked the port of Trieste with Poreč, climbing through rolling countryside, past vineyards, olive groves, forests and a string of stone-built hilltop towns. Today, much of the old line has been transformed into a well-marked path for cyclists, walkers and horse riders, offering a gentle gradient and a genuine taste of inland Istria far from the summer crowds on the coast.

A railway reborn

The original Parenzana railway opened in 1902 and ran for just over three decades before closing in 1935. It earned its name from Parenzo, the Italian name for Poreč. The line was an engineering feat for its time, with numerous tunnels, bridges and viaducts to carry small steam trains through the challenging terrain. After decades of neglect, local enthusiasts and authorities gradually converted the abandoned trackbed into a recreational trail, and today it is one of the most rewarding slow-travel experiences in the region.

What to expect on the trail

The Croatian section of the Parenzana runs through the northern part of Istria, between the border area near Plovanija and the town of Vižinada, from where the old line continued towards Poreč. The surface is mostly compacted gravel or earth, and the gradients are gentle thanks to the railway heritage, making it suitable for hybrid or mountain bikes as well as for walkers. Signposts with the distinctive Parenzana logo guide you along the way, and several old tunnels and bridges add a sense of adventure.

Because much of the route is shaded by trees and passes through open countryside, it is a pleasure to ride in spring and autumn when temperatures are mild and the landscape is at its most colourful. Summer can be hot, so an early start is wise if you visit between June and August.

Highlights along the way

The trail connects a series of charming Istrian towns and villages, each worth a stop:

• Buje – a hilltop town with panoramic views over the surrounding vineyards and the sea in the distance.
• Grožnjan – a medieval artists' colony with narrow stone lanes, galleries and a relaxed, bohemian atmosphere.
• Motovun – one of Istria's most famous walled towns, perched dramatically above the Mirna valley and known for its truffles and wine.
• Vižinada – a quiet village surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, marking the end of the Croatian section for many riders.

Along the route you will pass family-run konobas and agritourisms, but it is always a good idea to carry water and snacks, as services can be sparse in the rural stretches.

Planning your ride

There is no single right way to experience the Parenzana. Many cyclists choose to tackle a section in a day, using one of the hilltop towns as a base. Others ride the whole Croatian stretch over two or three days, staying overnight in Grožnjan, Buje or Motovun. The route is also popular for e-bikes, which take the sting out of the longer climbs away from the old railway bed.

Because the trail crosses a border, it is possible to combine the Croatian section with the Slovenian part for a longer international ride, though most visitors focus on the Istrian stretch alone. Whatever your plan, allow time to stop, look around and enjoy the slow rhythm of the landscape – that is exactly what the Parenzana was made for.