A Slow Guide to Motovun: Truffles, Hilltop Views and Medieval Charm

Motovun rises from the green heart of Istria like a scene from a storybook. This small hilltop town, surrounded by ancient walls and overlooked by a graceful bell tower, has long been one of Croatia’s most picturesque destinations. But there is more to Motovun than postcard views—it is also the truffle capital of the region, a place where the forest floor yields culinary gold and where each autumn the air smells of damp earth and white truffles.

Getting There and Getting Around

Motovun sits in central Istria, about 25 kilometres inland from the coastal town of Poreč and roughly 60 kilometres from the Slovenian border. The town is best reached by car—there is a parking area at the base of the hill, as the historic centre is pedestrian-only. A short but steep walk leads up through the old gate to the main square. For those without a car, local buses connect Motovun with nearby towns, though schedules can be limited outside summer.

Wandering the Old Town

Once inside the walls, Motovun reveals its medieval layout: narrow cobbled lanes, stone houses with flower-filled balconies, and a central square dominated by the church of St Stephen. The town’s most famous feature is its ring of fortifications, built between the 13th and 17th centuries, which offer sweeping views over the Mirna Valley and the famous Motovun Forest below. A walk along the ramparts is the best way to appreciate the town’s commanding position and the patchwork of vineyards and truffle-rich woodland that surrounds it.

The Truffle Connection

Istria is one of the world’s great truffle regions, and Motovun is at its centre. The forests around the town are rich in both black and prized white truffles, which grow underground in symbiosis with oak and willow trees. From late September to December, white truffle season reaches its peak, and the town’s restaurants and shops celebrate with special menus and tastings. Visitors can join a truffle hunt with a licensed hunter and trained dogs to see how these aromatic fungi are found. Even outside truffle season, many dishes in local konobas are enhanced with truffle shavings or truffle-infused olive oil.

Food, Wine and Olive Oil

Beyond truffles, Motovun and its surroundings offer a taste of authentic Istrian cuisine. Expect handmade pasta such as fuži and pljukanci, often served with rich meat or game sauces, and local cheeses and prosciutto. The hillsides around the town are dotted with vineyards producing Malvazija and Teran wines, and many small wineries welcome visitors for tastings. Olive oil is another local treasure—look for oils made from indigenous varieties like Buža and Istarska Bjelica.

Outdoor Activities

The Motovun Forest, which stretches below the town along the Mirna River, is a peaceful area for walking and cycling. Well-marked trails wind through the woods, passing truffle-hunting grounds and quiet clearings. In summer, the valley can be hot, so early morning or late afternoon walks are best. For a longer adventure, the Parenzana Trail—a former narrow-gauge railway line converted into a cycling and hiking route—passes near Motovun and offers a scenic way to explore the Istrian interior.

When to Visit

Motovun is enjoyable year-round, but each season offers something different. Spring brings wildflowers and mild weather, ideal for walking. Summer is busy but lively, with warm evenings perfect for dining on terraces. Autumn is truffle season, when the town hosts its most famous event—the annual Motovun Film Festival, usually held in late July or early August, transforms the town into an open-air cinema. Winter is quiet and atmospheric, often wrapped in mist that adds to the town’s mysterious charm.

Practical Tips

Wear comfortable shoes—the cobbled streets are steep and uneven. Bring a light jacket even in summer, as hilltop breezes can be cool in the evening. If visiting during truffle season, book truffle hunts and restaurant tables in advance. And remember that Motovun is a living town, not a museum—be respectful of residents and their privacy as you explore.