A Slow Guide to Ugljan: Olive Groves and Quiet Beaches Near Zadar

Just across the water from Zadar, Ugljan feels a world away. Locals call it the green island of the Zadar archipelago, and it is easy to see why: pine forests, ancient olive groves and fig trees cover much of its 50 square kilometres. Despite being one of the most accessible islands on the Croatian coast, Ugljan keeps a relaxed, unhurried pace that makes it ideal for a slow day trip or a longer weekend escape.

Getting to Ugljan

The island is connected to the mainland by regular car ferries from Zadar's Gaženica port to Preko, a crossing of around 20 minutes. A passenger-only line also runs from Zadar's old town to Preko during the summer, which is handy if you are travelling without a car. Ferries run frequently throughout the day, but it is worth checking the current timetable in advance, especially in the off-season when departures are less regular.

Exploring by bike, foot or car

Ugljan is about 22 kilometres long and rarely more than 4 kilometres wide, so it is easy to cover in a day. A paved road runs along the spine of the island, and the traffic is usually light enough for comfortable cycling. Many visitors rent bikes in Preko and follow the gentle climbs past olive groves and dry-stone walls. For hikers, a path leads up to St Michael's Fortress, a medieval stronghold above Preko with sweeping views over the Zadar channel and the neighbouring islands.

Beaches and swimming spots

The eastern coast, facing the mainland, has the calmest water and a string of pebble and rocky coves. Muline, on the northwest coast, is known for its clear water and quiet bay, while Batalaža and Sušica offer easy access and shade from pines. Many beaches are small and natural, so bring water shoes and a towel; you will not find rows of sunbeds here. The western side of the island faces the open sea and can be breezier, which suits windsurfers and those who prefer a wilder shoreline.

Food and local produce

Ugljan has a long tradition of olive growing, and the island's olive oil is a point of local pride. Fig trees, almonds and vineyards also thrive in the Mediterranean climate. Small family-run taverns and agritourism farms serve simple, seasonal dishes: grilled fish, lamb from the island's pastures, and vegetables grown in nearby gardens. Ask for whatever is fresh that day, and pair it with a glass of local white wine. There are groceries and bakeries in the main villages, but outside Preko and Kali, options can be limited, so plan ahead if you are staying in a more remote cove.

Practical tips for a slow visit

Although Ugljan is close to Zadar, it is not a place for packed sightseeing. The appeal lies in moving slowly: cycling between villages, swimming before lunch, and pausing at viewpoints. If you are visiting as a day trip, aim for an early ferry to make the most of the daylight. If you stay overnight, look for private apartments in Preko, Ugljan town or Kukljica, many of which have sea views and easy access to the water. Mobile phone coverage is generally good, and most places accept cards, but having some cash is useful for small purchases in village shops.