A Slow Guide to Walking Dubrovnik's City Walls

Few experiences in Croatia are as memorable as walking the walls of Dubrovnik. The circuit runs for roughly two kilometres around the Old Town, and it gives you a view of the city that the crowded streets below simply cannot match.

The walls date from the medieval period and were strengthened over several centuries. Today they are one of the best-preserved fortification systems in the Mediterranean, and the Old Town they enclose is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

What the walk is like

The route is a loop, so you finish where you began. Along the way you pass towers, bastions and small defensive positions, with the terracotta rooftops on one side and the Adriatic on the other.

You will climb stone steps at the entrance and at several points along the route. There is no lift, and some sections are uneven and worn smooth, so this is not an easy walk for anyone with limited mobility.

Choosing your moment

Light matters here. Early morning is cooler and calmer, and the stone has a soft glow. Late afternoon brings warm, golden light over the rooftops and the sea, which is wonderful for photographs.

Midday in summer can be intense. The walls offer little shade, and the stone holds the heat. If you visit in the warmer months, avoid the middle of the day if you can.

Shoulder seasons are especially pleasant. Spring and autumn give you milder temperatures and a more relaxed pace, which suits a walk you will want to take slowly.

Practical tips

• Wear sturdy shoes. Smooth limestone can be slippery, especially after rain.
• Carry water. There is little opportunity to stop for refreshments once you are up on the walls.
• Bring sun protection. A hat and sunscreen help considerably in the open sections.
• Allow time. The circuit can be walked fairly quickly, but most people take longer because they keep stopping for views and photographs.
• Go in one direction. The route is designed to be followed one way, so follow the flow of other walkers.

What to look for

Look inland and you will see the dense pattern of streets and rooftops, with the main thoroughfare running through the middle. Look seaward and you will spot the old harbour, the small island of Lokrum and, on clear days, a wide stretch of open water.

The towers and bastions are worth pausing at. Each one has a different character and offers a slightly different angle on the city, so it is worth taking a moment at each corner rather than rushing round.

Making the most of your visit

Treat the walls as an orientation exercise. Walk them first, and the maze of streets below will make far more sense when you descend to explore. You will notice which lanes climb steeply, where the squares open up and how the harbour sits within the town.

After the walk, a slow wander through the quieter side streets is a good way to finish. Many of the lanes away from the main thoroughfare are calm and rewarding, particularly in the early evening.