How to Cook Peka: The Traditional Croatian Way to Make a Meal Under the Bell

If you spend any time in Croatia, especially along the coast or in the countryside, you will eventually hear about peka. It is not just a dish; it is a whole way of cooking that brings families and friends together. For many locals, a peka is the highlight of a Sunday lunch or a special celebration. The method is simple in principle, but mastering it takes a little practice. Here is what you need to know.

What exactly is peka?

Peka refers to both the cooking vessel and the meal itself. The vessel is a large, dome-shaped lid made of cast iron or steel, designed to cover food placed on a round metal tray. The tray and dome are then covered with hot embers and ash, usually from a wood fire. The food inside cooks slowly in its own juices, creating tender meat and richly flavoured vegetables. Traditionally, peka is cooked outdoors, often over an open fireplace or in a specially built hearth, but you can also use a barbecue or even a home oven, with some adjustments.

Choosing your peka equipment

The classic peka is made of thick cast iron, which retains heat well and distributes it evenly. You will also need a round metal tray, called a tepsija, that fits snugly under the dome. A long-handled hook or shovel is useful for moving the hot coals around. If you are buying a peka for the first time, look for one with a sturdy handle on top and a good fit between the lid and the tray. A well-seasoned cast iron peka will last for decades. Some modern versions are made of steel and may be lighter, but cast iron is the traditional choice.

What goes inside a peka?

The most common peka is made with meat: lamb, veal, or chicken are favourites. The meat is usually cut into large pieces and placed in the centre of the tray. Surrounding the meat, you add vegetables: potatoes, carrots, onions, peppers, and sometimes tomatoes or zucchini. Garlic, rosemary, bay leaves, and a generous splash of olive oil are essential. Salt and pepper are added to taste. For a seafood peka, octopus is the star, often combined with potatoes and a little white wine. Whatever you choose, the secret is to keep the ingredients in large pieces so they do not fall apart during the long cooking time.

The cooking process step by step

Start by building a wood fire in a safe outdoor area. You will need a good bed of coals. While the fire burns down, arrange your ingredients on the tray. Pour a little water or wine over the vegetables to create steam. Place the tray on a flat, stable surface, cover it with the peka dome, and then shovel a thick layer of hot embers and ash on top of the dome. Some people also place a few coals under the tray, but the main heat comes from above. The cooking time depends on the meat, usually between one and two hours. Lamb and veal take longer; chicken may be ready in about an hour. Check the food occasionally by carefully lifting the dome with a long hook. When the meat is fork-tender and the vegetables are soft, the peka is done.

Tips from Croatian kitchens

• Use a mix of hardwoods like oak or beech for the best coals; avoid resinous woods like pine.
• Do not peek too often. Every time you lift the dome, heat escapes and the cooking time increases.
• Season the meat well the night before if possible; it makes a difference.
• If cooking indoors, preheat your oven to around 180°C and bake the covered peka on a low rack for about an hour and a half, adding a little more liquid if needed.
• Let the peka rest for ten minutes after removing it from the fire before serving.

Serving your peka

Peka is meant to be shared. Bring the whole tray to the table and let everyone help themselves. A simple green salad and a loaf of crusty bread are the classic accompaniments. A glass of local red wine, such as Plavac Mali or Dingač, pairs beautifully with meat peka. For a lighter option, a crisp white wine goes well with seafood. The meal is often followed by a digestif like rakija or a strong coffee. More than a recipe, peka is a social ritual. It invites you to slow down, savour the flavours, and enjoy the company around you. Once you have tried it, you will understand why Croats are so proud of this tradition.