Istrian Truffle Season: What to Eat and How to Enjoy It

Istria, in the north-west of Croatia, is among Europe's best-known truffle regions. Its oak, hazel and poplar woods, especially in the Mirna valley around Motovun, are home to both black and white truffles. Autumn is when the conversation turns to the prized white variety.

When is the season?

Several truffle types grow in Istria, so something is usually available. Black truffles are found across much of the year, while the white truffle (Tuber magnatum) is generally associated with autumn and early winter. That makes late October a good time to be in the region.

What to order

Istrian cooking pairs truffles with simple, hearty food, so the flavour is not lost. Look out for:

• Fuži or pljukanci with truffles: hand-rolled Istrian pasta, usually tossed in butter or cream with shavings on top.
• Scrambled or fried eggs with truffles: a classic that lets the aroma shine.
• Truffle cheese: local sheep's cheese, sometimes studded with truffle pieces.
• Istrian ham (pršut) and truffle spreads: common on starter boards.
• Steak or gnocchi with truffle sauce: a richer, more restaurant-style option.

How truffles are eaten

Fresh truffle is typically shaved thinly over a warm dish at the table. Heat releases the aroma, so it goes on at the last moment and is never cooked for long. Fresh truffle is different from truffle oil or paste, which are more affordable and more intense but taste distinctly different. If you want to try the real thing, ask whether the truffle is fresh.

Going on a truffle hunt

Many visitors join guided hunts in the woods with a local truffle hunter and a trained dog. Dogs are used rather than pigs, as they are easier to train and less likely to eat the find. Wear sturdy shoes and clothing that can get muddy, and expect the morning or afternoon to be a relaxed walk rather than a hike. Booking ahead is wise, since hunts are small-group affairs.

Pairing with Istrian wine

Malvazija istarska, the region's signature white, is a natural partner for truffle pasta and egg dishes. Its fresh, slightly floral character balances the earthy richness. For heavier meat dishes, Teran, a tangy red grown in Istria, is a traditional choice.

Tips for buying

• Fresh truffles should smell strong and clean, and feel firm.
• Buy from reputable sellers, such as specialist shops or well-regarded producers.
• Store fresh truffle wrapped in paper in the fridge, and use it within days.

Truffle season is as much about the landscape as the plate: misty hill towns, autumn woods and long, unhurried lunches. It rewards anyone willing to slow down.