Bakalar: A Guide to Croatia's Traditional Dried Cod Dish

Bakalar, or dried and salted cod, holds a special place in Croatian cuisine. While it might seem like an unusual choice for a country with such a rich supply of fresh fish, the tradition of eating bakalar dates back centuries and remains strong, especially along the coast and during the festive season.

A Fish with a History

The origins of bakalar in Croatia are tied to maritime trade and the Catholic tradition of fasting before Christmas. For centuries, sailors from Dalmatia brought salted cod from the North Atlantic, and it became a staple food during times when fresh fish was scarce or forbidden. Today, it is most famously enjoyed on Christmas Eve, when many families abstain from meat and serve bakalar as the centrepiece of the evening meal.

Two Ways to Prepare Bakalar

There are two main ways to prepare bakalar: na bijelo (white) and na crveno (red). White bakalar is the more traditional version, made by simmering the rehydrated cod with potatoes, garlic, olive oil and plenty of parsley until it forms a thick, comforting stew. Red bakalar, popular in Dalmatia, adds tomato paste and sometimes wine, creating a richer, heartier dish. Both are labour-intensive, requiring the cod to be soaked for days to remove excess salt, but the result is a uniquely flavourful and satisfying meal.

Where to Enjoy Bakalar

While bakalar is most often made at home, many restaurants and konobas serve it during the winter months, especially in the run-up to Christmas. In Dalmatia, you will find it on menus from Split to Dubrovnik, often as a starter or a main course. On Christmas Eve, it is typically served with crusty bread and a glass of local red wine, and the meal often concludes with fritule or other traditional sweets.

Serving and Pairing

Bakalar is best enjoyed with simple accompaniments that let its rich, salty flavour shine. A drizzle of high-quality olive oil and a sprinkle of fresh parsley are essential. In Dalmatia, it is often paired with polenta or boiled potatoes on the side, while in Istria it might be served with homemade pasta. A glass of robust red wine, such as Plavac Mali from the Pelješac peninsula, is the traditional choice.

If you are in Croatia during the Christmas season, keep an eye out for bakalar at local markets and butchers, where you can buy the dried cod to prepare at home. For those who want to try it without the effort, many restaurants offer their own version, and it is worth seeking out for a true taste of Croatian tradition.